Zero Delay USB Arcade Encoder for Switch, PC, PS3 - 2 Player Gaming

Yes, I used these controller encoder boards to make a 4-player arcade that would play roms off of RetroPie playing on a Raspberry Pie computer or a Nintendo Switch. I'd say now it works pretty well. I'll try to explain first how I had it set up and then I'll explain some difficulties.How I'm set up: I wired these encoders to buttons and joysticks that I also bought off Amazon. The encoders then have USB cables coming out of them. Out of the Raspberry Pie, I have two "1 male to 2 female" splitters. Out of my Nintendo Switch dock, I have a "1 male to 4 female" splitter. This makes it easy for the controllers to be easily detached and re-attached to whatever system I am using at the time. I took the time to color code the USB plugs so that I can easily tell which plug goes with which controller. Each controller button set-up has a joystick (has clickers on each direction so that it acts as a d-pad), x,y,a,b,l and r buttons, and an extra button, which I mapped to the CLE button so that I can change between the joystick reading for the analog stick or the d-pad (more on that below). I also have start and select buttons for each controller, and one button mapped to the MOCE (Mode or home) button on controller 1 in the middle of the arcade where all players can reach it.So here's how it worked out of the box (I updated the firmware later and I'll talk about that below):RetroPie: I had a hard time figuring out how randomly (it seemed at first) I would lose the joystick on the first controller. I would unplug the controller's USB it and plug it in again and it would be fine. After a while, I realized that it was any time I pushed the home (or MOCE) button that this would happen. I figured out that if I just pushed the home button again, it would be fine. Weird, but at least I could get it to work. I had the home button set up as my hotkey in RetroPie, so it's possible that I could have resolved this issue by assigning a different button to be the hotkey, but I wanted to be a hybrid system, and the home button is the menu button on the Switch, so I had to deal with it.Nintendo Switch: I think that this worked pretty well out of the box. Since I wired the joystick buttons to "up, down, left and right", it read the joystick to the d-pad, which made for a hilarious first battle in Smash Brothers. We all jumped and punched, but couldn't move as our characters taunted each-other! So we could not play smash brothers without the updated firmware. However there were lots of other games that double the d-pad and analogue stick (Mario Kart, Ultimate Chicken Horse, Towerfall all worked) but Smash did not. Another note about the Nintendo switch is that to set up the controllers on the Switch, you have to go into the controller settings and connect them all. I would have to go to the change controller order screen, then plug in the first controller and push the L and R buttons quickly before the LED on the controller board went out. If it didn't register, I'd have to unplug the USB and plug in again and again try to spam the L and R buttons before the LED light went out. Then continue for the rest of the controllers.After firmware update:RetroPie after update: After the firmware update, I could not figure out how to get a hotkey to work. I don't know why. Maybe if I mess with it more, I can figure out a work-around, but one thing for sure is that I could not get the MOCE (home button) to work as my hotkey. What I ended up figuring out is that I could unplug the first controller board and plug in another controller (I used a SNES style controller) and use its hotkey combo to get out of a game. Then I could hook the controller board back up and everything would be fine again. So it works great until you want to exit the game and then you can't exit. Like I said, I might be able to re-map the controller board so that a different button is the hotkey, but I haven't tried.Nintendo Switch after update: Works great. The MOCE button is the Switch's menu button and the CLE button toggles between reading the joystick as the analogue stick or the d-pad. You don't have to hold the button for 5 seconds like some people have said, you just click the button and it switches. This works great with Smash Brothers. This does not open up my entire switch library to working on the Arcade, however. I noticed that the joystick is pretty limited compared to an analogue stick. An analogue will allow you to move slowly or at any number of angles, whereas this will allow you to go left, right, up, down, and diagonally, and that's it. Games where angles and power matter (I had a mini golf game that was fairly impossible) do not work as well. Also, just a note, I have not tried to map or do anything requiring the right stick. It looks like you might be able to plug an analogue stick into one of the 5-pin slots, but I have not tried it. Plugging in the controllers to the Switch dock is about the same after the firmware update as before. I still need to plug each in on the change grip order menu on the Switch. Plug in USB and spam L and R quick before the LED light goes out. It's weird, but works.Overall impression: Very pleased. I did not know if it would be possible to have a RetroPie and Nintendo Switch hybrid arcade. It takes a bit of set-up, and every time you switch from one system to the other, it takes some unplugging and plugging, but it works!This product has been an excellent addition to my cabinet. I am able to play games on the Switch including SSB, Mario Kart, Mario Party Superstars, etc. However, out of the box it only mapped the joystick to the D-pad which makes the aforementioned games unplayable. The vendor can provide a firmware upgrade on request which will allow the device to toggle between D-PAD and Analog input with a button press. The default is still D-Pad as of this writing, so a button press is required every boot up to swap it over.These work as advertised with the Nintendo Switch, though I haven't tried both at the same time yet. Haven't tried them on a Pi or PS3, but they should work fine there as well. I got them to mainly use on a PC, with occasional Switch use.For PCs, there's a bit of an issue with them. By default, they go into D-input mode. You have to hold the mode button for 5 secs to switch to X-Input, which will be seen as Xbox 360 controllers (which most PC games use by default and some only use). The problem there is, 1) they don't stay in x-input after they lose power/connection and 2) when the PC comes on, it goes crazy connecting with them (repeatedly plays the tone it makes when a usb device is connected and doesn't stop on its own). I have to disconnect them, reconnect one at a time, and switch them back to x-input. Very inconvenient compared to other boards made by this same company that don't have either of these issues. I tried reaching out to them for a possible solution, but there has been no response.If you just want them to use with the Switch, they should work well, but for PC use, there's more effort needed each time you start up your PC than it should be.This is cool for encoder for Nintendo switch and pcAnd it work really well no input delay Great for the priceAbsolutely fantastic. Works great on my Nintendo Switch. I made my own custom Project Diva controller using this bad and it works so well. Super easy to use. I would definitely recommend it.Plugged my 3-prong arcade buttons in and made sure Pro Controller Wired is on before plugging into the Nintendo Switch and none of the buttons even work.Only thing that works is the Joystick.Edit: Bought their other board and it worked, with their brand of buttons. Don’t see why other universal buttons aren’t recognized on this board in particular. If you’re planning on make an arcade stick for the switch, stick to the switch buttons and stick to the same brand.So LEDs work off USB just fine. However, literally not a single posted system registers a controller. Really hoping i didn't get scammed here. Specifically looking for PS3 and switch capability. You can see my other controller board there and that actually is read by the PS3 ( however poorly) and pi but, the new one does absolutely nothing.Reçus dans une petite boîte carton bien emballé les pcb sont de conception simple et efficace mais semble un peu fragile niveau connectique il ne faudra pas trop les solliciterLes cables sont déjà préparés pour du plug n play en 2 configurations (cascade et standard) ce qui est fort appréciable, le câble USB de type imprimante est relativement long et peut être interchangeables attention à la boucle de sécurité qui peut gêner pour le passage dans le boîtier ce qui m'a obliger à percer dans mon hrap 3Attention pas de notice même pas une feuille mais le branchement est simple il suffit de de référer au marquage situé au dos du pcb.Après quelques test sur Switch et PS3 il ne semble pas y avoir de lag et la détection est automatique cependant un des pcb est capricieux et ne répond plus d ou ma note , cela m'embête de tout renvoyerFonctionne très bien sur ma borne Batocera Linux. L'encodeur USB est détecté immédiatement comme une manette classique et c'est hyper réactif. J'ai aussi pu alimenter les boutons rétroéclairés par une LED (attention à la polarité!!). Seul regret, j'aurai bien aimé avoir un peu plus de câbles pour pouvoir raccorder plus de boutons. Au moins tout ceux qui sont gérés par la platine CY-2219.Produit défectueux qui s'allume puis envoi un signal pour indiquer qu'il est mal alimenté et j'ai essayé sur PS3 et Nintendo Switch. Je possède un objet similaire qui fonctionne lui.Works as intended with Nintendo switch.Ne Fonctionne pas sur Xbox 360